The Rocky Mountain National Park Five Lakes Loop Trail is the best spot for a photo shoot…but photogs beware!

The Five Lakes Loop Trail in Rocky Mountain National Park is probably the most popular trail among visitors to the Park. It begins in the area of Bear Lake and takes you on a trail that ventures to Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, and Emerald Lake, and then on to Lake Haiyaha before a bit of a trek on to Alberta Falls. People obviously LOVE the opportunity to do photo shoots up there, but seem to be unaware of the risks involved.

The views are spectacular but there is a huge difference in both those views, and more so the terrain, depending on the season you choose to venture out there. We did both the summer and the tail end of winter, and we found difficulties in both. So you make the choice and enjoy, or suffer. We did…both.

The hike, which if done as per your RMNP Trail Guide from the National Park Service, is a 7.5 miles loop with an elevation climb of 1,525 feet, reaching an altitude of 10,228 feet. But the reality is that the loop is really unnecessary and you can see the five lakes without going for the advertised 7.5 miles round trip by doing it as an out and back and skipping Alberta Falls.

Although, I am not quite sure how the 7.5 miles was calculated. Both times we did Bear Lake, Nymph Lake, Dream Lake, and Emerald Lake. You can see all four of those without doing any loops and simply see them all as an out and back. There is a loop around Bear Lake, however, you can get in all of your pictures just by going to the very first view point, a few hundred feet from the trailhead and parking lot.

And doing just that…taking our pictures from that first cut out, and then reversing course and making our way up the trail for an ascent of over 1,000 feet, getting to Nymph Lake about ½ mile in, and then continuing on the path to Dream Lake and further on and up higher to Emerald Lake, and then back to the trailhead, was 3.6 miles.

Somewhere near the beginning of Dream Lake is a fork that takes you on a path up the side of the mountain to Lake Haiyaha. That is at least another mile up the trail and then a mile back down just to the point of that fork. So if the plan IS to see all five lakes, then you had better plan for a hike of at least 5-6 miles and three-plus hours.

Bear Lake Trail is probably the most popular and most densely traveled trail in Rocky Mountain National Park. The trailhead has the largest parking lot but on most days you can’t even get a spot in the lot. Rather, you will have to park about 7 miles down the road and grab a shuttle from a satellite lot. You can TRY to get into the lot, but most likely you will be turned away and forced to make a U-turn on the side of a mountain in the middle of a twisty-turny road at a very steep incline. Those with sketchy driving skills should definitely not attempt this challenge.

The challenge you SHOULD attempt, though, is the trail to see these beautiful alpine lakes. Winter, Spring, Summer, or Fall, every season gives a very different aspect and view of the magnificent scenery. So many hikers passing us as they are struggling on their way up the trail asked, “Is it worth it?” The answer is a most definite “YES.” The hike is listed as “moderate.” But there are some parts that, depending on the conditions, are actually quite difficult and quite dangerous.

Because the area and the vantage points are so beautiful, a lot of people use the settings for photo shoots. And, of course, they dress for the photo shoot and don’t head out properly prepared with the appropriate clothing and gear. Take my word for it…I LOVE taking pictures but taking pictures doesn’t mean that you should discount the risks of what you are likely to encounter on the trails.

The Five Lakes Loop Trail turned into a Four Lakes Out and Back Trail for us…for good reason

The first time we attempted to see the five lakes was in July. And it was hot, even up at the high altitude. We underestimated the ascent, some of the treacherous ledges to be navigated, and how much time it would take us to make it to Emerald Lake. We didn’t exactly get an early start. And there were a LOT of people. A LOT. The trail is extremely narrow in some parts, particularly along those ledges. Having to yield to other hikers along the way, and waiting for an opportunity to take photos while others are posing for personal shoots, took up a good chunk of time. So by the time we finished at Emerald Lake, which is at the end, and then made it back to the beginning of Dream Lake, we knew we would be pressed for daylight if we attempted to head up to Lake Haiyaha. So we figured we would go back and try again.

Although Spring is now underway, and the temperatures had gone above the 70’s mark in the Park, the trails were still covered in deep snow and were extremely slick from the heat melting some snow and then the freezing overnight temperatures re-freezing it all. So while some parts of the trails were seen and the dirt and rock were exposed, most of the trails were snow and ice covered with sunken foot prints frozen at least six inches in depth at some parts. And every so often you could HEAR moving water and then find a hole maybe the size of a softball and SEE the water flowing.

A LOT of the trails could not be seen and you were left to following grooves in the ice and snow. Most people were wearing spikes on their hiking shoes. We could never done any of it without putting the spikes on top of our Merrill Moab 3 hiking boots.

Although accurately labeled as moderate in July, difficult would be much more accurate in March with the packed snow and ice, the vast incline and decline, and narrow ledges to navigate. Truth be told, it was not easy at all getting up several steep inclines where the actual trail was covered. We used our hiking poles but even those didn’t help as sometimes there was no other choice but to grab and claw with our hands to make it up that hill.

Getting back down was even more treacherous. We had witnessed many people slipping and sliding on the way down, and saw how most people chose to make their way down by sliding on their butts. There were two places where we had no choice but to do the same.

Truth be told, we both took multiple falls.

Throngs of people were still making their way up the trail to get those perfect pictures. Some well-prepared for what they had to endure…some not so prepared. And although WE had every intention of seeing all five lakes, for the second time we decided to forego No. 5. This time it wasn’t for a lack of trying, but really because we couldn’t even FIND the fork where it bends off the trail to head up to Lake Haiyaha.

So back down another steep decline on our behinds we went. At one of the points where the trail couldn’t be found, we actually had to walk on a part of Nymph Lake that was frozen. Melissa’s foot found a weak spot in the ice and it went down a ways, and her hiking pole bent from the force.

That was it. Seeing Melissa carrying that bent pole and seeing people doing double-takes caused ME to lose it and that didn’t go over too well.

“I am MIZZZZZZERABLE. I hate the hike. I hate this trail. I am NEVER coming back here again. I hate this Park. I HATE EVERYONE THAT EVER EXISTED. And I HEAR you laughing. Keep it up.”

There are a LOT of places in Rocky Mountain National Park that we have found to be more fun and rewarding than the Bear Lake area. The views of the lakes are spectacular…no doubt about it. But we have been on other trails and we always prefer the destinations less traveled, the ones that tend to get less attention, and more often than not, a bad wrap.

While we, in some ways, would consider the Bear Lake area and the hike to the five lakes a bit overrated, it is definitely worth the effort and the views give you many rewards with great pictures. But be careful what you wish for…a great hike to get great pictures is often not very easy. So be mindful and aware and prepared.

Now I have to go out and buy Melissa titanium hiking poles.